Sunday, May 12, 2013

Intro to Poland: Jewish Krakow and Schindler


We had a very smooth flight today from Moscow to Krakow (pronounced "crack-off" in Polish... more language tips being learned quickly here!). Krakow is a lovely city (one which I have wanted to visit for a LONG WHILE), and we were happy to add another country to our "list" of those visited [I am now up to 51, I think, including recent Russia and now Poland!].

Krakow, the medieval royal capital, is one of Poland’s oldest cities; it is also incredibly well preserved, having escaped WWII bombing.  While we had drizzly, cold weather, we actually gained two hours on our way here, allowing us most of the day to explore. We had an awesome first day, where we went on a great (free, although they work for tips) walking tour of “Jewish Krakow” and then visited the (Oskar) Schindler Factory, a new (2010) and very well-done, interactive museum chronicling the events and atrocities in Poland during WWII.

The tour met in Rynek Glowny (pardon the lack of polish accents/characters), which is the largest medieval town square in Europe (at 400 sq meters). 

 

We spent most of the time in the Kazimierz district of Krakow, which was actually an independent town in past centuries, and which became a resettlement area for Jews from all over Europe. By WWII, about 65,000 Jews (25% of Krakow’s population) lived here, most of whom were first crammed into the ghetto established in Podgorze across the river, and then transported to nearby Plaszow and other concentration camps for extermination. Sadly, now, probably fewer than 1000 Jews still live in the city.

We passed a number of synagogues, placards, and historic squares, among other city sights.

Our guide, Jacek (or "Jack")

No commies here


The "Singer" pub, where many tables are made of old sewing machines!

Photos of Schindler's List filming sites

footbridge with "locks of love"

Street Art

Original Krakow Ghetto Wall

"Square of Chairs" within the Ghetto Walls, where many executions took place 


The tour ended at the former Schindler (enamelware) Factory featured in Schindler’s List, which is one of the best all-time movies I have ever watched. While of course Spielberg took some Hollywood liberties in the making of the film, the story is a true one and was filmed largely in Krakow, where the actual events took place. While Oskar Schindler was not a saint (he was a businessman and acted often in his own best interest), he did save the lives of over 1000 Krakow citizens and, revered as such, is a hero to the Jewish people and buried, accordingly, in Israel.

"Whoever saves one life, saves the world entire."

The (1098) Schindler Jews
 

(it seemed inappropriate to smile in any of these photos)




The Nazis renamed many of the Krakow Streets in order to "Germanicize" the city after their invasion and during occupation.



It was a very interesting, but sobering first day in one of the most beautiful cities of Europe.

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