Wednesday, May 15, 2013

Old Town Krakow and Full Bellies



We really enjoyed our time (four days in/around) Krakow!  It is a beautifully preserved medieval city (apparently the Germans thought so highly of it that they spared it, UNLIKE Warswaw, which was bombed to smithereens, in WWII) and very pleasant to walk around. Here are some of our random snapshots-- of city sights, and culinary delights.

Main town square (Rynek Glowny) & St. Mary's Church

The merchants' cloth hall is pictured here behind the carriage

I love the lighting in this photo (by Kelvin)

Wierzynek is one of the oldest (1364 AD) and finest restaurants in Krakow, where kings once dined...

... and where we caught an awesome Chopin piano concert by a young graduate of Krakow's Conservatory.


(I think it's obvious who was holding the camera most of the time... I seem to be in all the pictures!)

We went on another Free Walking Tour which gave us a great overview of the history of (poor, stuck between Germany & Russia) Poland and which took us to many Old Town, and other quirky, sites.

The Town Square also has this very odd, contemporary sideways bust of Eros by Polish artist Igor Mitoraj, which was controversially placed there among the other historic buildings (that is our tour guide, Pawel, peeking through the left eye!).



 Original 14th c. city "Florianska" Gate, through which visitors entered (or enemies tried to enter) Krakow from the north

Polish coat of arms (the white eagle)


Karol Wojtyla, or Pope John Paul II, was a very famous resident of Krakow during his university days, and was an actor as a young man! When he reached the upper eschelons of leadership in the Catholic church, he'd give speeches from this "Pope" window in Old Town Krakow.

Wawel ("vah-vell") Hill houses old Wawel Castle, where the Polish Kings were crowned and lived.  


Wawel Cathedral (which, although asymmetric, is still beautiful)

Castle Courtyard

This "puking dragon" spews out rainwater

A Hindu legend states that Wawel Castle's NW courtyard emanates spiritual energy which you may draw out by touching it. Here is me trying to get some energy.

Wawel the dragon (and symbol of Krakow) breathes fire every 3 minutes!

We also ate a lot of really wonderful food here in Krakow!

Grilled kielbasa from a communist-style street van


Golabki – “pigeons” of cabbage stuffed with meat, rice, etc.
 

(it was quite interesting that there was a *real* pigeon behind me as I was eating this)
 

K tried venison for the first time


Poland is famous for vodkas, and they specialize in flavored ones-- here is me with Wisniowka, a cherry-flavored vodka (which, I admit, does taste a bit like Robitussin). We also tried Orzech Laskowy, which is (strangely) nut-flavored

Kelvin had the best hotdog (can you call it a Polish dog if you eat it in Poland?) 
of his life in Zakopane

Meanwhile, I tried Zapiekanka, which (pizza-like) is a baguette toasted with mushrooms, cheese, and ketchup!


Another famous dish is Placki ("platz-key," potato pancakes), pictured here topped with ghoulash and with a beer (which I don't normally drink, but felt as though I should, as "when in Poland...")


We also tried authentic pierogi (boiled, stuffed dumplings), streetsite pretzel ring called obwarzanek, and zurek, which is a fermented rye soup with sausage and eggs... delicious!

Krakow has filled our hearts and our bellies. We found the Polish people to be extremely warm and helpful-- UNlike in Russia, they even go out of their way to point you in the right direction. There is so much to see, do, and experience here (another half- to one-day just in this city would have been nice!), and I highly recommend you visit Krakow someday!!


Wieliczka Salt Mines



--> On Wednesday, we took a half-day trip on our own to Wieliczka (pronounced Wee-LEECH-ka), a small Polish town just about 10 km south of Krakow and home to the famous salt mines which are a UNESCO World Heritage Site.


Salt mines have existed in this area since the 13th century to harvest rock salt of the “green salt” variety (which looks more gray in color… unlike pink salt which you can find elsewhere).  The mines became a “tourist” destination as early as the 19th century, and are no longer operating with respects to rock-salt excavation although (white) salt is extracted from the briny water in the area.



We went through numerous tunnels amidst the “tourist route” of the Danilowicza shaft (which actually comprises less than 2% of the total mine area!) to see various displays, statues (made of salt), demonstrations of salt-extracting methods, and astounding “chapels” carved by miners (in their free time).


Going down the initial 100m, 680-step descent into the mine

The floors, walls, and ceilings were all made of salt!

Salt stalactites
 

"Cauliflower salt"

Salts from around Poland

Salt crystals

 Our tour guide informed us that the entrance ticket to the mine included the cost of licking the walls, which I actually did, and Kelvin pretended to do...

 

Various salt-sculptures (which we were kindly asked not to lick, so that they could be preserved for other, future tourists to enjoy ...) dotted our path...




Nicholas Copernicus, famous Polish astronomer

Bust of the Polish King Casimir the Great


 While this statue is not of salt, it does honor Frederic Chopin, another famous Pole (Romantic composer)

We got a chance to power the machines to do the "heavy lifting"...
 


... a lot of which was done by horses back in the day.
 

St. Kinga’s Chapel was certainly the highlight of the tour. It (made entirely of salt!) took about 60 years and three different miner-artists to complete and, contains exquisite relief carvings from stories of the New Testament, salt figurines including of Pope John Paul II (a very famous Pole), crucifixion scenes, and salt chandeliers! You can get married in the chamber for about $1000, and it actually functions as a real church, with services held here every Sunday. It also has great acoustics for chamber music concerts.




JP II


The Last Supper (carved in salt)
 



Chandelier(s) of salt crystals!




The town of Wieliczka also has salt “health spas” where, underground, you can supposedly greatly improve or cure ailments of chronic lung disease due to the specific composition or lack of allergens of the salt-chambers (maybe we'll hit that next time when we're rich!).

It was a wonderful tour-- I am still amazed by the beautiful chapel!!!