It was a really, really interesting day where we learned a
ton about the aftermath of WWII, when Korea regained its independence from
Japan, the devastating Korean War after the North invaded the South, and the
aftermath of a divided peninsula (which is filled with much tension
to this day).
Photo-taking during the tour was quite restricted in
location, and we definitely felt the threat of losing
life or limb by overstepping our bounds with the North Korean soldiers on duty (this area has been quipped to be one of the "most dangerous tourist attractions" in the world :)!).
Our first stop was the Joint Security Area (JSA) or
Panmunjom, where conferences are held between the command of the Northern and
Southern armies. Unfortunately and unexpectedly, the North Koreans had somehow locked
the (shared) conference room which we were to enter on our tour and which, straddling the
border, would have allowed us to say we set foot on the land of North Korea (there goes my #55!!). Bummer. In any case, we still had a great (and very apologetic, due to the circumstances) U.S. army guide during the morning portion of our tour.
Here is the view just outside the Freedom House towards North Korea:
North Korean soldiers monitoring us:
The seriousness of the site made it seem inappropriate to smile...
... but we ultimately did
We had some foggy views into North Korea, where there is a large town "Gaesong" with some industry (and where some South Korean citizens commute), and also a sham "Propaganda" town "Kijongdong" whose appearance is kept up by North Korea (and which includes a showy 160m-tall flagpole with a 600-lb North Korean flag).
This is the "Bridge of No Return," where, when the Korean War ended on July 27, 1953, prisoners were exchanged (and North Korean POWs were given the option to return to North Korea, never to return, or stay in the South).
There is still an overwhelming hopefulness of reunification, and citizens come here to leave ribbons on the barbed fence
(this Canadian on our tour hung a ribbon in honor of his grandfather, a North Korean veteran who, after the war, luckily chose to stay in the southern land of his captors)
Peace Bell
We enjoyed a tasty, traditional lunch of beef bulgogi, eaten while seated on the floor, Korean-style
After lunch, we visited the Third Tunnel, which is one of four (known, as there may be many more) tunnels discovered between 1974 and 1990 which demonstrate North Korea's subversive plans to infiltrate the South.
No photos were allowed in the 2m x 2m x 1600m tunnel (of which we only visited 230m), which North Korea still suggests that the South created (but the slope suggests otherwise), but it was pretty neat to walk through it at 73m underground. Apparently 30,000 (North) Korean troops could have passed through the tunnel in an hour, in order to make an attack on Seoul.
Our next stop was Dora Observatory, where we could look into North Korea through binoculars for a small charge...
... and take photos, but only from behind the yellow line...
Our last stop before returning to Seoul was Dorasan Station, a railway station which served the industrial complex, and the "last stop" in South Korea before the border. However, due to accusations by North Korea that the South was doing naughty things, it now (since 2008) sits empty and unused.
(K waiting for no train)
Koreans hope that, someday, the train to Pyeongyang, the North Korean capital, will run...
... and allow a path of travel through Eurasia
Back in Seoul, we finished our day in the neighborhood of Gangnam (which, pronounced "Kangnam," just means "south of the [Han] river"). No Gangnam-syle dancing for us although we were tempted to take a picture with a Gangnam sign!
We strolled around the lovely park Seounjeongneung, which is the final resting place for a couple of kings (Seongjong, and Jungjong) and one Queen (Jyeonghyeon) of the Joseon dynasty.
(my permission to walk on the non-spirit road)
We ended our day with a nice view of my namesake hotel, and some Korean barbeque.
We just had to get (and photograph) these very cute socks...
... now that's Gangnam-Style!
