Tuesday, March 27, 2012

Best of the Renaissance

Florence, the birthplace of the Renaissance, is one of the most culturally-rich cities in the world. With its wealth of art (much of it commissioned by the wealthy Medici family), architecture, and museums, it could easily occupy weeks to months of your time. We were lucky to hit the highlights in our three days in Tuscany.

On another recommendation from Tia, we hiked up to the Piazzale Michelangelo, in the Oltrarno district of Florence, south of the river Arno, to watch the sunset on Monday. The large square bears one of the two copies of Michelangelo's famous "David" sculpture in the city of Florence (this one in bronze) and offers great views over the city.

David No. 1




Pinocchio (the book was written by Carlos Collodi, in Florence) by the sunset


City shot




We were extremely glad to get photos of the David-replicas, as you are not allowed to take photographs [apart from the entryways] in either the Accademia (which houses the real David) or Uffizi galleries, which we visited on Tuesday.

On many others' advice, we had pre-booked tickets and thus did not have to wait in the queues for either gallery... a MUST if you visit either of these, even in low-tourist season (currently, we are in moderate tourist season but there are still tons of people!).

The Uffizi Gallery was built adjacent to the Medici Palace for Cosimo I de Medici as a collection of offices and completed in 1581. Over the ensuing years, the building became used as a gallery to display works of art commissioned by and collected by the wealthy Medici family and is now one of the most visited galleries in the world. The collection (mainly paintings, but lots of marble busts, sculptures, and tapestries, too) includes work by da Vinci, Michelangelo, Botticelli, and even Rembrandt.

Uffizi (legal photo)



Botticelli's The Birth of Venus (internet photo)


The Accademia is a smaller gallery which actually had a very nice Musical Instrument Museum, but which is famous for the striking marble David (over 5m tall, on a large pedestal).


(internet photo)

While both K and I enjoy browsing art, we are not people to spend 4 hours in an art museum. However, the statue of the biblical David is astounding and we definitely marveled at it for more than a few minutes. It was chiseled by Michelangelo in about 3 years out of a basically abandoned piece of marble, and originally stood in the main town square (Piazza della Signoria) until 1873, when it was moved to the gallery for better protection.

Here is the second Florentine David replica, placed in the Piazza della Signoria in 1910


Here are some more pics of Florence's architectural wonders:

Palazzo Vecchio (town hall)


Basilica di Santa Croce (Holy Cross Cathedral)


This is the main Franciscan Church in Florence and the largest Franciscan Church in the world. It has sixteen chapels, lots of more art, and the tombs of many prominent Italians, including Nicolo Machiavelli, Dante Aligheri, Michelangelo, Galileo, and Rossini.

Michelangelo's Funerary Monument


Dante


Choir stalls


The Basilica also houses the Scuola del Cuoio (leather school), where you can see artisans at work (and gasp at the 200-euro wallets).


We also visited the opulent Capelle Medicee (Medici Chapels), part of the Basilica de San Lorenzo, which were built to include tombs for the wealthy Florentine family members.



Some more sights of glorious Florence:
The Arno River (from Ponte Vecchio)




And other delectable Florentine treasures:

Cream croissants


Cappucino (best drunk standing up at a bar like a true Italian-- apparently this is almost exclusively a breakfast drink in Italy and it is kind of frowned upon as a post-tomato-y-meal drink [a rule which I broke]).




Pasta

(although Kelvin didn't participate, I had an awesome gorgonzola ravioli last night and am loving the cheese here! He had wild boar [cinghiale] instead, which was also delicious!)

... and, our favorite....

(no, I am not double-fisting. Kelvin had to take the photo and I was just "watching" his gelato for him!)

Monday, March 26, 2012

Cinque Terre



On day two in Italy, we visited Cinque Terre ("five lands"), a gorgeous area of the Ligurian coastline (Italian Riviera) and a UNESCO world heritage site, about 2 hours from Florence. The location was highly recommended by my medical school friend, Tia, who traveled to Italy last summer. The area is accessible by road, but the best way to traverse the five villages (Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Monterroso) is either by ferry or on foot. We actually only made it to three of the five villages amidst the national park (a big flood in October 2011 made some of the mountain roads impassable) but the scenery was spectacular! The region is well known for foccacia bread, pesto, and limoncino (like limoncello liqueur). MMMMM....



(They say that, on a clear day, you can see Corsica and even the coastline of France!)


Riomaggiore


The Marina








Lovers' Path between Riomaggiore and Manarola






(Kelvin insisted on this picture)


"Locking" hearts together, forever










Manarola


Vernazza (one of the town most devastated by the Oct 25 flood)




We found this sign humorous!


We did stop at another seaside town, Portovenere, on our way back to Florence.

Castle at Portovenere




Lovely day in a lovely country!

Sunday, March 25, 2012

Firenze!


Piazza della Signoria, Florence

We made it safely to Italy! After I did a speedy 4:40 p.m. delivery at the birth center, we said goodbye to Pepper (who is hanging out with Elise while we're gone) and then headed to Oakland to stay with the Lees and meet their newest addition, Sophia (who was asleep but very adorable!). We left early on Saturday to make our flight to Toronto, and were in Rome by 11 am Sunday. One easy express train from the airport to the central train station and another fast Eurostar train later, we were in Florence!

It is a lovely city! When Laura and I visited Italy in 2003, we hit Rome and Venice but did not get a chance to see Florence/Tuscany. The countryside is beautiful, and the city gorgeous, too! We are staying in a very central hotel and spent our first afternoon exploring the city on foot. We visited many of the piazzas (squares) which pepper the city. We went inside the grand Duomo (or Cattedrale di Santa Maria del Fiore), the world's fourth largest cathedral, and admired the ceiling frescos.









We climbed the 414 steps to the top of Giotto's Campanile (belltower) adjacent to the grand cathedral.











We crossed the Ponte Vecchio (bridge over the Arno which survived the WW2 bombing) and explored the Piazza Pitti and the Boboli Gardens which were enchanting. As you can tell, the weather is great (and is supposed to be sunny and around 70 for the rest of the week!).








Our day ended with delicious pasta and wine from Trattoria Zsa Zsa's near the Mercato Centrale, and gelato (which I'm pretty sure will be a daily thing).



Kelvin doesn't believe me that the water is drinkable here and accidentally bought a 6-pack of fizzy water.... but, otherwise he is very impressed with (stylish) Europe, the ease of getting around, and traveling in the first world! This is going to be a great trip!