Saturday, April 9, 2011

1000 miles and a night in Bakersfield




I might have a pressure sore from sitting in the car for so long.

After a day’s driving TO Death Valley (5 hours from Orange County), in and around Death Valley National Park, and then out of Death Valley by about 3 p.m., (about 550 miles) we thought we were making good time. Having seen the park highlights, we decided to try to make the haul all of the way back to Sacramento (another 9 or 10 hours). Despite the long journey ahead of us, I was excited to show Kelvin the very scenic route home (one of the prettiest drives in California), which would take us north on US-395, past the portals to Mt. Whitney (outside of Lone Pine), north to Mammoth Lakes (one of my favorite spots in California!), and then through Tahoe Back home. Despite being pretty thoughtful people and generally good planners, we forgot something major which was abruptly brought to our attention when we reached Bishop, CA.


After driving about 1.5 hours north on US-395, we saw a flashing sign which read, “Snow/Ice; chains required 40 miles ahead. High winds, caution.”

We drove another few blocks before the implication of the words sunk in.


It snows on mountains, even in April.

California has lots of mountains.

We have had a TON of precipitation this year.

We had to drive home through the mountains.

We had Kelvin’s car and did not have tire chains.


Our comments:

“Did that just say chains are required?!”

“Where would that be? Mammoth? Tahoe is too far away. But we still have to drive through Tahoe.”

“What should we do?!?!”


We had just passed an office of the CA State Department of Transportation, so we thought about stopping to inquire about our options. However, it was 5:18 p.m. While it was the weekday, they were closed.

We realized that, had we stayed overnight in Death Valley, we would have been realizing this tomorrow and without the extra cushion of time. Yikes.


So, alternate route planning was in order. But, as I wrote earlier, parts of (eastern) California are with difficult road access, as there are very few roads that travel over Sierra Nevada mountains.

What were our options?


K (studying the map): “Can we continue up and cut across Yosemite?” (which was north of us at the time).

Me: “That is still north of Mammoth, so I think we're still up a creek. Besides, I don’t think the main road is open yet for the summer. That would also take forever.”

K: (thinking...)

Me: "Can we somehow drive east to Nevada and go around all of the mountains??"

K: "don't think so."

Me: (jokingly) "Maybe we can spend the night in Vegas after all!" (LV was probably 8-9 hours away)


K (after many minutes of silence and map review): "Hmm. I think we are stuck then. I don’t see any other options to go in the same direction."



After much map-scrutinizing by both of us and playing with the GPS for distances/times, we realized that yes, indeed, we had no other options to get over from the eastern to the middle part of California without completely backtracking.


When you’ve already driven 550 miles in one day, what’s another 500? (even if half of it is is the same direction from where you came, albeit on a scenic road with mostly views like this:


Lone Pine, CA



This reminded us both of times when we, independently, inadvertently drove the WRONG way on I-5 towards Bakersfield, me (making good time) with Amy coming back from Big Sur, and K going about 80 miles before realizing he was going south, not north.


But this was different in that we HAD to backtrack. There was no other way. What really hurt the most was not the extra many hours that we were sort of "wasting," but that gas was averaging us about $4.20 per gallon, and we did NOT have the Prius (which would have had chains in the trunk and would have obviated this whole predicament.)


Anyway, we headed back south for about 3 hours to get back to where we started—the meeting point of the Hwy 190 to Death Valley NP and 395. And then we kept driving south.


More decisions (as the sun was setting)

- Could we make it to Sac (driving until 3 a.m.) this same day? Would that be ridiculous?? That would be a near 24 hours awake!

- Do we just drive back (and backtrack completely) south to Orange County to K's parents' house (another 4.5 hours), rest, then haul it tomorrow north on major highways to Sacramento (6 hours, hoping to avoid traffic)?

- Do we hit up Vegas??

- Do we try to get to Bakersfield, which is on the main Hwy 99, just stay overnight, and then drive tomorrow the ~5 hours to Sac?

- Do we drive until we're tired and find a ghetto motel off the highway?

- [Me] Could we stop somewhere near something fun and see something new tomorrow?


We ended up doing option #4, staying overnight in Bakersfield at a really delightful inn which was very comfortable. While listening to the news, we were shocked at the strange weather that was hitting California. We had actually driven through SNOW (yes, snow, although it did not stick after hitting the ground) on Highway 58 to Bakersfield, which is in central (on the east-west axis), southern CA ! Undoubtedly there is snow (LOTS of it) in the mountains, including Big Bear (favorite ski resort for LA residents) and many eastern CA mountain towns. We learned that, indeed as we suspected, Mammoth Lakes had a huge snowstorm, necessitating the closing of some ski resorts, and leading to the projection that people may be able to ski there until the fourth of July (a weekend that I went there to hike, in shorts and t-shifts, just 2 years ago!).


How weird.


In any Case, we left Bakersfield the next morning around 9 a.m. (without any sightseeing :( -- apparently Lonely Planet even had some Bakersfield highlights, believe it or not, but we just wanted to GET HOME!) and were back in Sacramento before 2 p.m.-- one national park, one thousand miles (about half of California!), 22 hours of driving, and one night in Bakersfield later. THAT is what I call a road trip :) (We need to get an RV!)





Thursday, April 7, 2011

Day trip (sort of) to Death Valley





I have lived in California for four years and have gotten to see so many wonderful things in this amazing state! I feel like I have explored it with the intensity of the philosophy that “I may never be back.” Luckily, I will be living here for at least four more years (and, by marrying a California “lifer” thus far, there is a good chance I may become a “lifer,” too); however, there are still a few things which are lingering on my “must do/must see list.” Death Valley National Park was one of them.


We had a bit of time after our Costa Rica trip (before returning to “real life” in Sac) to spend in the U.S. (having taken K’s advice to not “milk every vacation” for every last day abroad, as I have been guilty of doing in the past. I must say, as a result, it really has been one of the most relaxing vacations I have had, and certainly one of the best that I have had in the past four years).


So my idea of “relaxing” some more was to get up at 4 a.m. to leave Orange County to visit Death Valley National Park, a mere 5 hours away (and about 10 hours from Sacramento). Let’s just say that I think K must really love me because this 4 a.m. wake-up was not the first in the past week of “vacation” (think: early AM flights and bus rides in order to get where we needed to go in C.R.). But waking up at 4 a.m. to go visit a breathtaking national park is far better than getting up at the same hour to, say, preround, right?? We are definitely still vacationing.


Let’s just put it out there that lots of travel is sort of mandatory to see this park, as Death Valley is not close to ANYTHING. Well, anything besides maybe Las Vegas which may be a more popular competing tourist destination (when I asked some So Cal natives, “Have you ever been to Death Valley?”, most of them replied “No, why would we go there? We’ve driven by there on the way to Vegas, though.”) A couple of times on the road, K did ask, “Are you sure you don’t want to go to Vegas instead?” ("No, I'll leave that to you for your Bachelor party," I replied.) Death Valley is across the Mojave Desert from the LA metropolitan area. It is south of Kings Canyon, Sequoia, Yosemite NPs, and Mammoth Lakes, which are similarly quite difficult to get to at times (think Sierra Nevada mountain passes, road closings… and a future blog post for more on that subject...). The park is basically 5000 square miles of desert, and there aren’t many ways in or out.



But we went. And we made good time. WE ARE SO GLAD!!! What a wonderful treasure of a national park! It is the largest national park in the continental U.S., and one of the most unique that I have visited. We had heard that March- April (a great time to visit, as temperatures are reasonable) can be swarming with tourists. However, visiting on a weekday, we were pleasantly surprised by the paucity of visitors (mainly old people on tour buses—likely from Vegas or NV!), which seemed interestingly to parallel the rather desolate environment.


Death Valley is not the most beautiful of national parks I have visited (I'm thinking that Glacier, Yosemite, or Yellowstone are up there at the top). It being pretty much a desert (the area gets the least rainfall of anywhere in the U.S.), there is very little “green” to be seen. There are years when springtime can be blessed with the blooming of wildflowers; however, due to the very small amount of precipitation this year, this was not one of those years. However, the landscape and the variety, as well as the history and extremes, makes this park extremely interesting.


Zabriskie point (thank you to a friendly tourist for taking this photo, one of the only of the two of us)


The name of the park comes supposedly from the spoken farewell of a woman in a group of pioneers who wandered into the valley in the 1849. Few members of the original party survived in the stark environment and, when leaving, the woman uttered, “Good bye, death valley.” In case you didn’t know, Death Valley is the most scorching place within the U.S. in the summer, with temperatures reaching up to 136 degrees Farenheit as you can see from this sign:





Apparently, summer (July-August) is one of the peak times for tourism (I CAN’T IMAGINE WHY, with those temps), as many Europeans venture here to get the recognition for surviving the record heat. Per one of the park rangers, it cools down to a refreshing 110 degrees at night in the summer. [And another factoid: crazy people run the Badwater Ultramarathon in July, where a course takes them 130 miles from Badwater, the lowest point in the continental U.S. (see below), to Mt. Whitney, the highest. I am not sure how many people die trying or how many of their shoes melt in the process.] Currently, the weather is nice-- 50s-80s; however, the blustery winds (up to 35 mph) were quite a surprise for us. The ranger told us that the wind is kind of random—it does not appear to be correlated with specific seasons. Here is the gist of the conversation we had:


Me [brushing sand out of my eyes]: Is it always this windy??!
Ranger: No; it seems to come and go. Sometimes every other day or so it’s like this. It happens due to the storms on the California coast.

Me: Is it this windy in the summer?

Ranger: It can be.

Me: Well, at least the breeze must feel nice when it’s that hot.

Ranger: Not really. It’s like having a blow-dryer on in your face. With sand blowing everywhere.

Me: Oh. Well, I guess it’s good that we are visiting now, then.


The park consists of various natural attractions which are quite widely spaced by desert landscape (we didn’t get a chance to visit “Scotty’s castle,” the opulent home of a famous tale-teller as it would have been an extra two hours' drive); however, the connecting roads are very nice. Here are just snapshots of the highlights:


Dante’s View at 5475 feet

(the hair gives you an idea of how windy it was-- we worried we'd get blown off the mountain!)


Furnace Creek Ranch, with various old country-western equipment (along with a General Store and Saloon)...



...and palm trees!


We drove through twenty-mule canyon-- where wagons of mules carried mined borax to the villages, as well as to a viewpoint called Artists’ Palette—the hills of sand were glorious colors, including reds, browns, greens, purples, and yellows...



Badwater Flats

Badwater is the lowest point in the continental U.S., at -282 feet (282 feet below sea level; land below sea level can only exist in areas where it is extremely dry).


We could see the sign reading “Sea level” high upon a rockface behind us.


What is really cool about this is that the highest point in the continental U.S., Mt. Whitney at 14,497 ft (which Erin, TJ, Brian, and I hiked last September), is a mere 80 miles (as the crow flies) from Badwater. Isn’t California awesome?!


K and I had fun hiking along the salt flat, which reminded me of my excursion to the Salar de Uyuni in Bolivia with Mindy in 2009.

Here are the obligatory fun, jumping pictures…


(this was on the first take!)


(not this one, though. Apparently, per Kelvin, I don't "get off the ground" very well)


....and a guy with a hula hoop... (?!)


Devil’s golf course with sand spires



Mesquite Flat sand dunes


I just ADORE sand dunes!


Lone Joshua Tree (Joshua Tree N.P. was another contender for the day trip but lost out to D.V.N.P.)



As I mentioned before, we were originally going to camp overnight at Furnace Creek. I was envious of all the visitors who drove around in their RVs (while K wants a Segway, I badly want a RV so we can travel around in full style without worry about where to stay :)); however, for fear that our tent would blow away due to the gusts, and the fact that (due to our early [!] start) we saw most of the highlights of the park over the course of the daylight hours, we opted to be hard-core and drive back to Sacramento the same day. That is a LOT of miles.


This last part definitely did NOT go according
to plan. For details about that part of the adventure, you will have to wait for another post. Stay tuned for that drama….

Monday, April 4, 2011

Costa Rica, Parte Dos: Critters, Canopying, and the Coast




The Costa Rica Adventure continues... After La Fortuna (which we HIGHLY recommend), we took a minibus-flanked boat ride across Lake Arenal to Monteverde, the home of the "cloud forests" (forests of higher elevation at 1200-16oo m) and abundant wildlife.



We first visited the quaint Serpentarium in town, where we became acquainted with many of the creepy-crawlies we could be expected to see in the forests.



We then went on a guided night nature walk, where we encountered such interesting creatures as the Mexican porcupine (up in a tree-- apparently a rare sighting!), as well as various creepy-crawlies. Can you believe we got this close to the following:

Venomous side-striped palm pit-viper (which was apparently in the "S"/striking position-- nice to know)


We learned all about what you are not supposed to do should you get bitten by a venomous snake... suck the venom out. As most toxins are hemotoxins which circulate through the bloodstream, you should just walk (not run-- as your cardiac output increases, distributing more of the toxin throughout your body), to your closest clinic, where antivenom is housed. No need to kill or photograph the snake-- people generally get more bites that way.

Orange-kneed tarantula (the guide took this picture-- being an arachnophobe, there is NO WAY I would ever voluntarily get this close to a spider)



The next day, we enjoyed a "Canopy Tour," one of the highlights of this highlight-filled trip. While I have ziplined before, K tried it("pseudo-ziplining, I call it) for the first time last year in the Philippines (over something like a parking lot, which bought him much grief from me). However, this ziplining ("canopying") was cooler than any we had done before. There were about 12 different lines, with the longest 1 km in length, and they were high above the forest. We zoomed over the trees and over river valleys , enjoying fabulous views! The complex also included a tarzan swing, whose initial drop was terrifying, but which was really fun. The conclusion was an optional add-on, the "Superman" line, where you are suspended in a prone position from the cable and zoom along, hands-free, for the length of the cable. It was awesome! If you come to Costa Rica, you must do this!



Tarzan swing


(the end of the) Superman cable


We hiked in the Santa Elena Reserve (Cloud Forest), where we saw a whole lot of creepy-crawlies and beautiful flora, but no big mammals which are my favorite (I recall that, on a South African safari with the Kitsteiners, I told JB, "don't bother me with the birds. Get my attention when you spot a mammal."!).



Our next stop on the trip was Jaco (accent over the o although I can't find the key), a beach town on the Pacific Coast which required a couple of painless bus rides to reach from Monteverde. The town is a hot spot for surfers due to the awesome waves, not something either K or I really wanted to confirm (with attempting surfing, that is). We found a cute hotel just a stone's throw from the beach, with wireless, AC, TV, and a pool! We spent an extremely relaxing day playing in the waves, enjoying the hotel pool, and watching some awesome NCAA final four basketball games (go Butler, my new favorite team!), which we found on the Puerto Rican CBS channel.






My idea of vacation!



Iguana outside our room!


We hit a local taco bar for dinner, where we had yummy fish tacos. Our order was placed at a stand, and then we were told they would "bring our food" to us. We were scratching our heads, trying to figure out how they would remember whose fish tacos were whose (this was a hopping place!). We joked that it was something like "these are for the Asian guy in red with the dorky glasses," as this pretty much described what Kelvin looked like that night. I burst into laughter when I looked at our receipt, which noted "Chinin roja lts," which we figured out to mean ("Chinese, red, glasses [lentes]). Here is the described subject with the receipt and the mandatory "salsa muy picante."



From Jaco, we headed south to Quepos and Manuel Antonio, home of a large and the country's famous National Park. We took a guided park tour, where we saw a ton more wildlife than we were expecting (I dont' know how these guides can spot tiny lizards or birds from like 50 feet away, but they can!). We saw sloths (two- and three- toed), howler and white-faced monkeys (two of the four monkey species found in Costa Rica), many iguanas, a toucan, hawk, lizards (including the famous "Jesus Christ lizard," named such because it speeds across, seeming to "walk across water"), bats, and more...
It was wonderful!

Vine-climber


Lizard (I forget the name-- we saw so many!)


Toucan



Three-toed sloth


Bats


One of many iguanas we saw!





We then relaxed in a couple of beautiful beaches within the park (Playa Espadilla Sur or "second beach" and Playa Manual Antonio, "third beach,") before heading off to a Mangrove Tour.







While we got caught in a downpour during the mangrove tour (this IS the rainforest, after all; and we learned that Costa Rica has 2 seasons-- not wet and dry but rainy and rainier...) and we were not fortunate enough to see any crocs or snakes, it was still a great time! We saw many birds-- including the beautiful flamingo-like rosette spoonbill, snowy egrets, as well as more monkeys, lots of colorful crabs (hard to photograph!), and interesting mangrove trees.




Doesn't this make you think of the movie "Outbreak"?!!
(White- faced capuchin monkey)



Our boat drriver, Orlando, made me this cricket out of palm leaves!

We fly out of San Jose tomorrow. I am so sad so see this tropical vacation end! Encantamos Costa Rica!

And, to conclude, here is a picture which captures the essence of "pura vida," a Tico napping on a Corona bottle. :)